Laherte Frères Ultradition Extra Brut Magnum

Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate

The Laherte NV Brut Ultradition Disg. 10/2012 – 60% Meunier; 30% Chardonnay; 10% Pinot –is exuberantly dominated by juicy and vivacious lime, peach, grapefruit, and Persian as well as honeydew melons, their succulent fruit mingled on a polished palate with nut oils and shitake, as well as suffused with a saliva-drawing sweet-saline, iodine-rich savor of crab and lobster shell reduction that makes for a compelling finish. Yes, this is certainly a capital “U” umami-rich wine! I’m astounded to realize – given its sense of energy and vivacity – that it is based on vintage 2009. Whatever be “ultradition,” it’s an approach I can only heartily commend to other growers! (Of course, you might not be able to make anything like this if you lack that “secret ingredient,” good Meunier; and scrolling down to my review of Lahertes’ “Les 7” might raise suspicions of a connection between their greatest successes – as I perceive them –and the prominence of unjustly neglected cepages!)

Features