Barrat Masson Grain D’Argile Extra Brut

Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate

Purists will adore the NV Extra Brut Grain d’Argile from Barrat-Masson, an unerringly precise wine that opens in the glass with notes of citrus oil, oyster liquor, green almonds and white flowers. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, bright and incisive, built around a rapier-like line of ripe but racy acids and displays a fine mousse, excellent intensity and a long, bone-dry and delicately saline finish. This release was disgorged in May 2017 with two grams per liter dosage, and it’s based on the 2014 vintage with 20% reserve wine from the 2013 harvest. From organically farmed vineyards in the Sézannais, this cuvée contains 35% Pinot Noir and emphasizes the domaine’s clay soils. The tensile, acid-driven style won’t be for everyone, but I loved it.

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